put up a trio of fun of lines today at riverside. one good harder line remains.
this problem looks like a total turd, but i swear it is really fun. it’s all about holding the barndoory body position for the first move, sticking a terrible crimp, and then jumping. what’s not to like? as far as the grade goes – here is what i’m thinking:
it’s harder to start for the 5′ 10″ plus crowd (5/6), but harder to finish for the 5′ 7″ minus crowd (5/6)
the crux crimp is the same for everyone
so the grade is basically how hard it is to move to and subsequently hold the crimp.
which is scientifically a v5
hence – v5
long problem (30+ moves) kinda boring to watch. but if you’re at work it probably beats talking to the guy you share your cubicle with. short lived v4 sequence into a pumpy rail traverse into a v5 huck into short v3 sequence to the rest.
12/3 + 3 = 7
12 = 12 and 3=C (on a cereal box code wheel)
so. um. v7 or 12c
also peep the blue organic t-shirt in the hizzy. f’real.
100% humidity pwn. the crimps felt like soggy pillows.