17
Apr
09

bamboozled

put up a trio of fun of lines today at riverside.  one good harder line remains.

15
Apr
09

credit crunch

this problem looks like a total turd, but i swear it is really fun.  it’s all about holding the barndoory body position for the first move, sticking a terrible crimp, and then jumping.  what’s not to like?  as far as the grade goes – here is what i’m thinking:

it’s harder to start for the 5′ 10″ plus crowd (5/6), but harder to finish for the 5′ 7″ minus crowd (5/6)

the crux crimp is the same for everyone

so the grade is basically how hard it is to move to and subsequently hold the crimp.

which is scientifically a v5

hence – v5

05
Apr
09

holly golightly low

long problem (30+ moves) kinda boring to watch. but if you’re at work it probably beats talking to the guy you share your cubicle with. short lived v4 sequence into a pumpy rail traverse into a v5 huck into short v3 sequence to the rest.

4+5+3=12

12/3 + 3 = 7

12 = 12 and 3=C (on a cereal box code wheel)

so. um. v7 or 12c

or

7A+/7b+

also peep the blue organic t-shirt in the hizzy.  f’real.

31
Mar
09

more from a sendathon

me on hamster town (aka 'the chuffer version of rat city')

me on hamster town (aka 'the chuffer version of rat city')

big holds and powerful moves.

big holds and powerful moves.

it's over.  left hand to a jug and right to the finish.

it's over. left hand to a jug and right to the finish.

28
Mar
09

ten-70-traverse

100% humidity pwn.   the crimps felt like soggy pillows.

19
Mar
09

holly golightly

pwned.

17
Mar
09

this is the garage it came from

dsc00132

Continue reading ‘this is the garage it came from’




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