Archive for April, 2009

17
Apr
09

bamboozled

put up a trio of fun of lines today at riverside.  one good harder line remains.

15
Apr
09

credit crunch

this problem looks like a total turd, but i swear it is really fun.  it’s all about holding the barndoory body position for the first move, sticking a terrible crimp, and then jumping.  what’s not to like?  as far as the grade goes – here is what i’m thinking:

it’s harder to start for the 5′ 10″ plus crowd (5/6), but harder to finish for the 5′ 7″ minus crowd (5/6)

the crux crimp is the same for everyone

so the grade is basically how hard it is to move to and subsequently hold the crimp.

which is scientifically a v5

hence – v5

05
Apr
09

holly golightly low

long problem (30+ moves) kinda boring to watch. but if you’re at work it probably beats talking to the guy you share your cubicle with. short lived v4 sequence into a pumpy rail traverse into a v5 huck into short v3 sequence to the rest.

4+5+3=12

12/3 + 3 = 7

12 = 12 and 3=C (on a cereal box code wheel)

so. um. v7 or 12c

or

7A+/7b+

also peep the blue organic t-shirt in the hizzy.  f’real.




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