bamboozled

put up a trio of fun of lines today at riverside.  one good harder line remains.

credit crunch

this problem looks like a total turd, but i swear it is really fun.  it’s all about holding the barndoory body position for the first move, sticking a terrible crimp, and then jumping.  what’s not to like?  as far as the grade goes – here is what i’m thinking:

it’s harder to start for the 5′ 10″ plus crowd (5/6), but harder to finish for the 5′ 7″ minus crowd (5/6)

the crux crimp is the same for everyone

so the grade is basically how hard it is to move to and subsequently hold the crimp.

which is scientifically a v5

hence – v5

holly golightly low

long problem (30+ moves) kinda boring to watch. but if you’re at work it probably beats talking to the guy you share your cubicle with. short lived v4 sequence into a pumpy rail traverse into a v5 huck into short v3 sequence to the rest.

4+5+3=12

12/3 + 3 = 7

12 = 12 and 3=C (on a cereal box code wheel)

so. um. v7 or 12c

or

7A+/7b+

also peep the blue organic t-shirt in the hizzy.  f’real.

more from a sendathon

me on hamster town (aka 'the chuffer version of rat city')

big holds and powerful moves.

it's over. left hand to a jug and right to the finish.

ten-70-traverse

100% humidity pwn.   the crimps felt like soggy pillows.

holly golightly

pwned.

this is the garage it came from

hibernator

more hard easy problems from the woods.   hopefully we can get some footage of medium medium or even easy hard problems up before too long.

alien workshop

i’m doing it the hard way.  people in the know cross off the gaston.

more. again.

cruxing on Plumplestiltskin 8-ish

almost home-free on Zig 3/4

mainside/backside.

poulette on the camera.

richelle about to make scary time on Second Sea 5

on the flex hold

whew. safely past the flex hold, megan sets up for the appalling finish

lean machine

another nice day.  peep it.  patrick on the 4th ascent of lean machine.  note: camera died on the actual finish.  this is a reenactment.

friday the 13th

for more details on this fascinating ascent goto itcamefromthegarage

the name emerged from the gore generated from patrick’s hatchet/rock/finger assemblage.  and it was friday the 13th.  and i like horror films.

backside y’all

new rock. new problems. new post.

full tilt on Lean Machine 6

patrick sticking Holly Golightly 5

dev completing the group send of Holly Golightly

sunset - wet project - perfect

more.

photo courtesy of one josh poulette and edited with my sick iphoto skills.

root wars and the green chinese rock/bioshock project

the proj

root wars 6/7 is the thin crack/dihedral to the left

patrick projjing the proj

dev took these photos

more ziggler and Dev on the boulder one project

patrick on ziggler 7

um…ziggler sequence

photoze curtesy of dev

perfect day at main side

another shot of Friday the 13th (v6-ish)

setting up for another throw at Bob Downey Variation (v5-ish)

just before an epic fail on Bob Downey Variation (v5-ish)

gimp patrol (v3)

for some reason we failed to take pictures yesterday.  but we did put up a slew of new problems despite the pictorial lacuna.

this short sequence is from a line Patrick found on the Other Side; edges in a bulge to a nice right hand sloper and good pop to a jug.  another nice little drop-off boulder with a couple lines on bomber rock.