fury register

bamboozled

milyoo — Fri, 17 Apr 2009 03:29:58 +0000

put up a trio of fun of lines today at riverside. one good harder line remains.

credit crunch

milyoo — Wed, 15 Apr 2009 17:02:51 +0000

this problem looks like a total turd, but i swear it is really fun. it’s all about holding the barndoory body position for the first move, sticking a terrible crimp, and then jumping. what’s not to like? as far as the grade goes – here is what i’m thinking:

it’s harder to start for the 5′ 10″ plus crowd (5/6), but harder to finish for the 5′ 7″ minus crowd (5/6)

the crux crimp is the same for everyone

so the grade is basically how hard it is to move to and subsequently hold the crimp.

which is scientifically a v5

hence – v5

holly golightly low

milyoo — Sun, 05 Apr 2009 01:25:21 +0000

long problem (30+ moves) kinda boring to watch. but if you’re at work it probably beats talking to the guy you share your cubicle with. short lived v4 sequence into a pumpy rail traverse into a v5 huck into short v3 sequence to the rest.

4+5+3=12

12/3 + 3 = 7

12 = 12 and 3=C (on a cereal box code wheel)

so. um. v7 or 12c

7A+/7b+

also peep the blue organic t-shirt in the hizzy. f’real.

more from a sendathon

milyoo — Tue, 31 Mar 2009 02:29:20 +0000

me on hamster town (aka 'the chuffer version of rat city')

big holds and powerful moves.

it's over. left hand to a jug and right to the finish.

ten-70-traverse

milyoo — Sat, 28 Mar 2009 00:24:34 +0000

100% humidity pwn. the crimps felt like soggy pillows.

holly golightly

milyoo — Thu, 19 Mar 2009 02:24:18 +0000

pwned.

this is the garage it came from

milyoo — Tue, 17 Mar 2009 22:27:32 +0000

this wall, built in 2005, features 3 panels (2 horz on the left and one vert on the right) + roughly one more panel distributed between the vertical top section and the kickboard. in total about 100 sq. ft. of climbable surface @ roughly 54 degrees past vertical. the right side of the wall sports 1) a set of h.i.t. strips used primarily for A-E workouts and warming up 2) stone age medium edges 3/8″ used for various lock-off exercises, and 3) nicros campus rungs (on a 15 degree board) for… um…campusing. the floor padding includes old gym flooring covered in several mattresses. this ‘pro’ extends roughly 8 feet back from the lip of the wall. all of this fits in a standard 2 car garage with 10′ ceilings. it is also worth noting the greg rueff designed structure is free-standing as the garage was ill-fit to handle the load of 180 lbs. of crazy throwing between crimps (2×4′s for ceiling joists? WTF?).

if i could go back and redo it? first, i would change the pitch of the top panel. i’d kick it back to 10 degrees or so to prevent hitting my elbows on crimps when throwing for the jug rail. second, i would (and probably) will add more training pieces to the obviously unpopulated left side. the edges of home walls tend to be somewhat barren and putting in system holds seems to put them to ‘work’ while providing a less dynamic ‘interface zone’ between the wall and the pointy things in your garage.

questions, comments, concerns?

hibernator

milyoo — Fri, 13 Mar 2009 04:03:56 +0000

more hard easy problems from the woods. hopefully we can get some footage of medium medium or even easy hard problems up before too long.

alien workshop

milyoo — Wed, 11 Mar 2009 20:33:55 +0000

i’m doing it the hard way. people in the know cross off the gaston.

more. again.

milyoo — Sat, 07 Mar 2009 12:58:01 +0000

cruxing on Plumplestiltskin 8-ish

almost home-free on Zig 3/4